Day Twenty (23rd Sept) – Cabure

28 09 2010

We got in, but how do we get out..?

Ten to Fifteen years ago Jericoacoara was nothing more than a tiny fishing village that saw no outsiders let alone tourists. Then it was discovered as a very good kite and wind surfing destination. Slowly it developed to accommodate kite and wind surfers and later general tourists. However, it is a long way from a real town, for example the streets are sand, no hard surface or pavements. Walking around is hard work and you need a 4×4 or buggy to get about.

With this in mind we had to head west out of Jericoacoara to Cabure. The easiest way was to take an eventful six hour 4×4 taxi. It took an hour and a half of driving along the beach and across two estuaries to reach a road! Six hours later including a short breakdown we were literally ‘off the map’. This place, Cabure, felt more like an Arctic science station or the mining town out of ‘Aliens’. A cluster of buildings in the dunes by the coast, with a constant strong wind blowing huge snow-like sand drifts. It’s a very eerie place and got more so after sunset when an almost full moon illuminated the buildings and dunes. It was also then that we realised this place was too small and remote to have power and relied on a generator that was switched off between 21:00 and 06:00. Oh and not a sniff of a hot shower!

There was nothing else to do but to have a luke-warm shower (the water had been sitting in a water tower in the blazing sun all day) and go to bed with a gale still blowing outside. Don’t get me wrong we love this place… It’s like nothing else we’ve experienced. We would have gone for a midnight stroll, but didn’t want to get lost out there and quite honestly we were a little scared.

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